Honeybee journal entry

Here is what I found in today’s inspection:

Tango hive:  (new top bar hive)

Humid inside!  I need to drill some ventilation holes in the bottom, and maybe another entrance hole.  There is comb drawn on 7 bars, 5 of which are completely drawn.  Some capped honey is on the end, but otherwise it’s relatively light on nectar–the bees have been using it to generate wax.  This is fine now, but it means that I’ll need to feed them through the bloom dearth that hits in late May.  Capped brood is visible, with a lot of eggs.  The queen has been busy.  I did see her but I had not set out to find her.

I removed the empty syrup can which came with the package.

Oscar hive:  (observation hive)

The frame behind the window has not been maintained by the nurse bees.  A few come up to feed the brood, but not enough.  Many of the cells have larva that are dry.  Many eggs did not hatch because they got chilled for lack of nurse bees and were removed 4 days after the frames were put in.  A host of drones had been stuck last week behind the queen excluder between the top window and the bottom 5 frame nuc box.  I released them, and the kids caught many of them as pets.  They are now inside the house in various tube & cardboard cages.

At least 7 capped queen cells were in the bottom 5 frames.  Hooray!  I moved one frame up to the top position, so I can see when she hatches out.

24 hour mite drop on Wednesday evening, 4/21 was 18 mites.  Contact paper was not sticky enough to hold the mites, so the next day I used a plastic board coated with coconut oil, which seems to work better.  A 30 window yielded 13 mites Friday morning, 4/23.

It was a little tricky getting the access tube re-attached to the hive when I finished because it was full of workers trying to get back “home”.  No major problems, and only 3 bees were released inside the house.  They were promptly squished.

Alpha hive:  (The original queen & half the frames that I split from)

The bees have pulled comb and completely filled two of the empty frames I put in last Friday.  Worker brood, drone brood, eggs, capped honey, nectar & pollen are there in abundance.  I have them in 2 western boxes now, but they have not yet moved down into the bottom box.  All looks great here.

Bravo hive:  (one of the new nucleus hives; 5 frames of a western box with a separate entrance)

Well populated with young bees, and even many foragers coming and going.  It is adjacent to the original alpha hive, and has benefited from “drift” from the returning foraging worker bees.  3-6 queen cells visible, some open and some capped.  One was broken open because it was attached to adjacent frames–I’m glad there were spares!  This also looks very good with stores of honey, nectar, pollen.  There are a lot of capped drone brood.

Charlie hive: (the 2nd of the new nucleus hives)

Same as bravo hive above, except I didn’t inspect the last two frames which I could see had been waxed together by the bees.  There were a couple of queen cells in frame #3, and I expect there are several others in the last two frames.  I didn’t want to risk breaking them.  All looks great on this one too.

Notes:

Overcast but fairly warm ~60F.  Inspection done at 12:30 PM.

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Chicken tractors for ducks

We’ve been raising ducks, geese & chickens since 2005.

Our current design for portable pens has been very successful with ducks & chickens, so I am posting the materials list & designs here so you can try it yourself.   

Because these portable pens are designed these for ducks, there are no laying boxes.  I’ve added one to the pen that has our chickens in it, but I’ve only included a photo of it in the instructions.  Contact me if you would like to get more detail than can be seen in the picture.   

Samuel and his ducks

One of the main criteria for these pens was to keep them light enough so my 8-year old boy could move them on his own.  I think the 5×10 ft size is a good compromise for capacity & weight.  They have worked very well for us.  Generally each pen holds a total of 8 adult ducks for eggs.   During the summer, we kept about 15 meat birds in the same space and you could go with a higher density than that if you are willing to move them twice a day.  The ducks generate a lot of mud during the winter rainy season here in western Washington, so we’ve kept the population down to ease the burden on the grass.  

If you do give it a try, please let me know what you think of them, and how they might be improved.  

DuckPenConstructionInstruction.pdf  

DuckPenMaterialsList.pdf 

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Goslings spotted today!

My morning routine is pretty well established, which is important because it takes me about an hour before I’m awake enough for independent thought.  My wife will agree that stumbling around in the morning without having your “brain turned on” is a guy thing.

 Anyway, this morning I was stumbling through the routine of feeding the geese, and encouraging the ganders to hiss at me. 

“Good morning Duke, thanks for coming over!  I’m glad to hear that you don’t like me coming by because it means you’re being a good guard-gander for the goose who’s sitting in the pen behind you.”

I had finished throwing the lettuce & celery into the last pen and had turned to walk away when I stopped with a big smile.  Three bright, neon-green goslings had climbed on top of their mom who was still sitting on the nest (day old goslings always have a tinge of neon-green).  It takes 31 days for goose eggs to hatch, and there they were.

 The best part for me was the fact that I didn’t have to worry about keeping these little ones warm today, even though it was pouring down rain & only about 45°F.

Success!

What a joyful morning!

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Splitting the beehive

My goal has been to keep about 6 beehives.  Last year I started with 2, ended with 1, and learned a ton about beekeeping.  That one hive is doing great, and there’s still about 3-4 weeks left on the major spring “bloom”, so it’s a good time to split the hive before it swarms.  The queen will stay in her original home, the “Alpha hive”.

I moved 6 frames into my ulster observation hive, which is a regular 5 frame deep nuc box with a special 6th frame top behind glass. I’m calling this new hive my “Oscar hive”.  It comes into the house, but the bees can access the outside through a tube connected to the window.  Officially it’s a homeschool project, but I’ll enjoy watching it as much as the kids will!

These bees walk through the tube to get outside the window.

Last year I got a hive box that is split in half, with 5 frames on one side and 5 frames on the other, with a divider board between them.  Each side has it’s own entrance and top feeder.  I moved 8 full frames and 2 empty frames into this box, equally split between the two sides.  These two new hives I’m calling “Bravo” & “Charlie”.

My top bar hive has now been dubbed the “Tango hive”.

Each of the new hives get frames containing a mix of capped brood, larva, unhatched eggs, nurse bees, and honey.  I reoriented the old hive so the entrance faces a new direction, and put the split hive box adjacent to it so returning foraging worker bees will have to decide which hive was theirs, with a portion “drifting” into the new hives.

Each half of this box is a small "nucleus hive".

Each of these new hives should rear a new queen from their young brood or unhatched worker eggs.  It takes 28 days for a new queen to grow from a fertilized egg to a mated & laying queen, and I’ll enjoy watching the progress along the way.

Hopefully this will all go well.

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Exploding population in the beehive

Here is a new queen cup on a brood frame

There are new opportunities every day.

Yesterday afternoon, I inspected my beehive.  The maple trees have been in full bloom for the past few weeks, and the bees have definitely made the most of it.  Their population has more than doubled since the bloom began there’s a lot of fresh wax and it’s loaded with nectar, pollen, & brood.  The hive looks great! 

The bees also think it looks great because I discovered they had built several swarm cells on the frames.  This means the queen and half of the bees are getting ready to leave home.  I have wanted to increase my hives, so now I’ve got the chance to do it.  If I do nothing, then the old queen and about half of the worker bees will swarm away in search of a new home shortly before the new queen hatches out.  However, I’d rather not lose half of my bees if I can avoid it.  Many beekeepers cut out these swarm cells when they find them, but I’m taking it as an opportunity to split them into another hive.  

There were no eggs or larva in the cells yet—they weren’t there when I opened the hive last week.  I can expect a new queen to emerge 16 days after an egg is laid in them.  The old queen should stay in the hive until the new queen cell is sealed up during its pupa stage—8 days after the egg is laid.  That means I’ve got a week from today to split this hive in two.

Addendum:  I’ve since learned that it is normal to have empty queen cups in the hive, and that the queen will not lay in it until it is needed.

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Installing Packaged Bees into a Top Bar Hive

Packages of worker bees w/a queen; One of these is mine

The queens came in individual cages, and ran $20 each if you just wanted to re-queen your hive. The whole family was along with me when we got them, and we all got to see how they were delivered.

The queen that I bought was in a tiny wooden box like this, only it was hanging inside the box of worker bees.

Nurse bees tend the cages of single queens waiting for a hive

Nurse bees tend the cages of single queens waiting for a hive

I ordered a new package of honey bees this year through the Puget Sound Beekeepers Association.  For $75, I got 3 lbs of bees (about 12,000 insects, but I didn’t count) along with a queen.  I picked up my new bees on noon Sunday, which turned out to be a nice spring day. 
 
After we got home, ate lunch, and had our usual afternoon Siesta, they were ready to go into their new home.  I put the finishing touches on our new top bar hive (http://www.biobees.com/), and moved it out to a good sunny spot in our back pasture.  Although I had aspirations to build one out of recycled pallets, I was pressed for time, and used the scrap plywood instead.  (that still counts as recycled wood in my book)  The biggest change to the construction plans was the addition of a viewing window to make it easy to follow what happens inside.  

New top bar hive ready for bees

This hive is 15” wide at the top (inside dimension), 6” at the bottom, and 48” long.  There are 34 bars are 17-½” long and 1-3/8” wide, one of which has a divider attached so I can adjust how much space the bees have.  This is my first top bar hive, and I do not have bars with drawn comb.  That means there is a risk that the bees may choose to draw comb in the wrong direction.  To help them choose wisely, I’ve notched the bars so there is a bit of wood hanging down about 1/8” for the bees to hang onto.  

These top bars have a bump so the bees hang straight comb

Installation was pretty simple.  I just opened the box and dumped the bees in.  Because packaged bees don’t have a hive to defend they are quite gentle.  I’m wearing gloves in this picture because it keeps me relaxed when working with the bees, and a calm beekeeper makes for more docile bees. 

The queen cage is in my pocket

I gave the bees 12 top bars of space to get started.  As they increase, I will move the follower down the hive and give them more bars to hang comb on.  Until they have enough stores built up, they need supplemental feed too.  The can of syrup that came with the package is sitting inside the hive on a couple of short sticks as a feeder.  I will remove it in a day or two and feed dry sugar after the syrup is gone.  

A towel keeps the queen from flying away when I open her cage

These bees have spent the last 3 days in a box together with their new queen, so they will accept her without more delay.  That means that I was able to do a “direct release” of the queen into the mass of worker bees.  She could still fly away if she wanted to, so I draped a towel over me to prevent her from escaping.  Once that job was done, the last of the top bars went back in place, the roof went over them, and I left them to their new home.

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150 lbs. of romaine lettuce

Our neighborhood has the best produce market in the county.

Discarded greens from the local produce market

Yesterday afternoon I made my usual stop at TopOfTheHillQualityProduce to pick up their discarded greens.  I’ve been doing this every day for almost 2 years now, and have built a great relationship with them.  Now that spring is coming in, business is picking up and that means they generate more “garbage”.  As I pulled into the parking lot, Francisco pulled out two 32 gallon buckets full of the usual debris of lettuce, spinach, cabbage & celery, and then pointed to a bonus of 5 cases of romaine lettuce.  Woohoo!  The tops had started to wilt so it no longer met the store’s quality threshold of perfection, so out it went.

I loaded it all into my car, left off the 2 empty Brute trash cans from the previous trip and hauled it all home.  After a couple minutes of sorting out the bits of plastic & rubber bands, it was ready to go out to the geese & ducks.  They love tearing into the heads of lettuce, and it does my heart good to see free food supporting the birds and the manure enriching the soil around the farm. 

Turnips, carrots & root crops don’t help waterfowl much, so that gets directed to the goats.  None of the animals have shown an interest in eggplant, asparagus or cabbage, so that gets hauled out to help expand my red wriggler worm farm & vermiculture system.  Diversity is a wonderful thing!

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How to stack a woodpile

A nice stack of firewood

“Nathan, you make a good looking woodpile.”

You’ve got to smile when your mother-in-law compliments your collection of firewood.  It happens that mine actually splits and stacks her own firewood, and knows what she’s talking about.

Over the past several years I’ve had about a dozen different people help out with moving, hauling and stacking firewood with me.  I love having willing volunteers, and it’s been great to have the help—especially with tasks that take more muscle than brain.  What has surprised me though, is only 1 of my helpers has known how to stack a proper woodpile. 

Often the pile starts out in the gap between two conveniently located trees, and is soon followed with a question like:  “What should we do now–there isn’t any space left to put away the rest of the wood?”  Or maybe the opportunity would show up as the helpers began a second row of wood which rapidly turned into a triangle with pieces rolling down the face of the new row.  Last December, I had a person ask me, “why are you putting the pieces on the end of the pile the wrong direction—does that help with the air-flow?”.  I’m always glad when these questions come up and I can to show how this keeps the logs from rolling off the end of the pile—it’s easiest to explain the pile is going up.

I’ve toyed with the idea of offering educational workshops on the farm–including a course on firewood stacking.  I could have a big load of wood dumped next to the house, and get everyone to do the work for me as I explained the details of making a stack that has square, vertical ends with a lovely, flush face and level top.  If there was time we could discuss the finer points of how the pieces used on the perpendicular ends must always be of split rounds of equal depth & height, and that there should be an ever so slight slope towards the center of the pile to prevent the wood from falling over the wrong way as it dries.  It would be important to have actual firewood to work with since wordy descriptions just don’t work as well.

For those ambitious learners we could even go into the science of splitting and “reading” wood for checks and knots.  There would be discussion sessions to compare effort & heating performance of Douglas fir vs. alder or maple.  The second course would pick up and go through the details of felling, limbing and cutting with axes, hand powered crosscut saws and 2-cycle chain saws. 

This would also tie together with what time of year is good for using the small branches & leaves for goat browse, as well as how mushrooms & fungus feeding on the stumps & roots of harvested trees enriches the soil for the new seedling trees. 

It would take at least a full afternoon to cover the many topics of woodlot management, and how coppiced trees produce firewood & poles so much more efficiently than wild timber stands.  It would be good if I had demonstration areas of pollard trees and living fence posts which facilitate animal grazing operations.  There would have to be an additional day to discuss species and site selections so people could decide whether to plant a colonizing, leguminous trees like red alder and black locust, or whether a climax species like western red cedar or Oregon maple would be most appropriate for their woodlots & pasture hedgerows.

The class applications could culminate with kindling fires in a cast iron wood stove to cook a meal, a masonry oven to bake the bread, and a Finnish-style masonry heater to warm the building for the day.

….

My, but how daydreams can roll on while doing a mindless task like stacking firewood…. 

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Techniques for natural nesting

A question for Nathan about hatching chickens via natural nesting: 

  

So, my blue slate pair: she started laying about 3 weeks ago, in a provided dogloo with straw. the ducks also layed there, but since those were infertile (drake got eaten by an eagle), I removed them. the hen was a bit lazy at first, only staying in the nest about half the day. After about 2-4 days of that, she’s been sitting on them most of the day, and I think all night. today is about day 9 of her sitting more often. I was able to count 9 eggs total, during a recent outing of hers.   

?: is this spotty sitting problematic? I was thinking of waiting about 30 days total, and if there’s no activity, removing all the eggs, and hoping she’ll lay another clutch.   

?: if any hatch, can she be trusted to care for the chicks, or should i remove them to a brooder ASAP? Since they were layed over a nine day period (at least), will they hatch over the same period, or will they hatch together?   

?:can the poults eat medicated chick feed? or is there a more appropriate feed?   

I really appreciate your insight!   

Thanks,   

Doug   

Nathan Replies:    

This giant african dewlap gander is an excellent guard for his sitting mate

I’ve had some experiences that might be helpful.  You get to decide how it would apply to chickens, since I’ve worked mostly with geese & ducks over the past 5 years.   

Using a dogloo:   

Not recommended for geese—chickens may do better though.   

3 years ago I used a plastic dog house with plenty of straw as a nest shelter for a pair of ebden geese in our back yard.  It was quick & convenient, which are both strong positives in my book.  The ~6 eggs did not hatch however, even though the goose was a relatively good sitter.  On inspection, I could tell that the eggs were fertile, but did not progress past about the 10-day stage.  There were at least 2 issues here.  The main one was the goose had to sit on a flat surface instead of a cupped nest.  This allowed the eggs to scoot out from under the mom every once in a while and they got chilled.  The 2nd is goose eggs need the humidity from the ground to progress & hatch, and they didn’t get that either.  A 3rd potential problem is that late-stage gosling eggs need abundant fresh air during their last week of incubation to finish out, and that might have become an issue with the plastic floor.  With that said, we did have a broody chicken hatch out a gosling in a plywood box with straw, but it was only sitting on 3 eggs in a small (12”x8”) space.   

Inconsistent sitting:   

This doesn’t seem to be a killer as long as it only happens during the first week.  I’ve been concerned about this with a couple of our geese, but they were became much more disciplined after the first 5 days or so, and had successful hatches.   It is normal for geese to take a 10 minute break twice a day for food & water—it’s amazing to see their consistent timing.   

Checking on progress:   

I’ve candled the eggs at night with a flashlight and removed infertile or dead ones after day 7—that’s when you can see the blood vessels well enough to make a decision.  It’s encouraging to see them grow, and the mom doesn’t mind.  I don’t do this now because the gander is always on guard.  I love an aggressive gander on patrol, but it prevents me from checking the nest like this.   

When the eggs hatch both ducks & geese have behaved similarly.  They continue to sit for another day or two, but take progressively longer outings.  It’s important to put water for the chicks near the nest.  I also like to put feed nearby for them to find it to help ensure survival.  The babies will do best with mom, and she will keep them warm as needed.  We have had problems with independently minded chicks straying off on their own and disappearing due to crows, raccoons & owls.  This is a challenge since the chicks can fit through fences that adult birds can’t.  For goslings, the gander guards them by day, and the goose shelters them at night and during rain.  Drakes don’t seem to do much at all with the little ones—it all falls to mama duck for watching over ducklings.  I had one chicken hatch a gosling 4 years ago.  She was the best protector that gosling could have asked for.   She even kept me away from it!   

Hatching sequence:   

Hens and ducks will lay a fresh egg in the nest every day, and the goose every other day.  It stays cold, but viable.  As the bird gets broody, it will linger longer on the nest after every egg, sometimes for hours as she gets close to officially “sitting”.  I like to reduce the number of eggs to what the bird can cover—usually 8-10 eggs, and a single layer deep.  (There will be trouble if more than one bird can access the nest, or lay an egg next to a sitting mom—who will scoop it up into the nest.)   

When the eggs are cold, they do not progress.  Thus, when the broody mom starts to sit, all the eggs are at the same embryonic stage, and so they all progress at the same time.  This means that they will all hatch at the same time—usually the same day.   It’s a joy to hear the eggs calling through the shell on the day before they hatch!   

Medicated feed:   

Since I do waterfowl, I can’t do medicated feed.  My impression is that medicated feed is to prevent bacterial infection outbreaks in large populations of caged & contained chicks.  I’m doing free range birds, and emphasize healthy diets on healthy pasture.  My opinion is that your birds will do better with a non-medicated ration & access to grass.  The best results I’ve had was when I put out worm filled compost daily for the chicks & ducklings to pick through.  Because chickens scratch, they do much better at this routine.  I’ve successfully put a “working chicken” in my duck pens to turn the compost for them.   

Predators:   

I’ve had sitting birds taken by raccoons, which is why I’ve gone with guard ganders.  It worked last year on an experiment with one goose pair & one duck pair, so I’ve expanded it to 8 pens now.   

Fertility window:   

Last year’s rooster was causing problems for my 4 year old who was responsible to feed the hens, so it went into the stew.  We had the incubator running, so I continued to put the chicken eggs in to see how late they would hatch.  I had eggs hatch that were laid 30 days after the rooster was gone!   

My reason for doing natural nesting is to have the animals do the work instead of me.  It’s great fun to do a little bit of planning and then let nature run the way God designed it to go!   

With encouragement,   

Nathan   

 

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Bone Broth

Cracking open marrow bones makes a richer broth

We’ve been working through the GAPS diet very thoroughly this spring, and a central part of that has been preparing lots and lots of high quality broth.  Preparation is easy, but it does take a few days to finish.

Here’s the routine I follow.  It’s basically straight out of Nourishing Traditions by Sally Fallon:

I’ve got a 10 quart stock pot that I like to use, and I start out with a couple pounds of bones in the pot.  Since we buy our beef direct from the farmer, the bones come from with the meat from the butcher.  After filling with cold water, I add about 1 Tablespoon sea salt, and 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar and bring it to a boil, uncovered.  As it starts to bubble, I skim off all the foam as it collects on the surface.  This will remove a lot of the impurities from the broth.

I’ve noticed that meat that has been through the koshering process (soaked & salted) has much less foam to skim on the first step—which is interesting isn’t it?

After skimming, I reduce the heat to a low simmer and cover the pot.  At this point I’ll add any seasonings I feel like at the time; black pepper, mustard seed, onion, garlic, rosemary, oregano—often I’ll go through the spice cupboard and take a spoonful of all kinds of stuff and put it in the pot.  I love to put in a stick of kombu (dried kelp) at this point.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kombu

Keep an eye on the water level to make sure the pot doesn’t boil down to nothing and burn during the next 3 days.  Yes—3 days, 72 hours.  You can add water as needed, but I think the result is better to just to keep the simmer low and the lid tight.  I have a gas range which doesn’t like to simmer, so I end up putting a skillet under the pot to help prevent the broth from boiling too hard.  You can see it in the photo.

On occasion, I’ll get marrow bones that aren’t cut in half by the butcher.  These in the picture goat shank bones, and I broke them in half after nicking them with a hack saw.  This lets the marrow add to the broth.

By the end of the 3 days, the bones will be much softer—if you remembered the vinegar you will be able to crush them with your fingers, and the broth will be thick & rich.  Strain out everything and let the broth cool.  If there is too much grease on the top, it can be removed easily after it’s chilled in the refrigerator.  I save the extra grease for tallow candles—which will be a future posting.

My kids and I all love the Yorkshire pudding from the marrow bones, and we will spoon it out while it’s still hot in the strainer.  On the very rare occasions where there is more than we want to eat, I just add it back to the broth.  The bones go into the wood stove so they will crumble quickly & easily when the ashes are spread on the pasture to return the much needed phosphorus and trace minerals back to the soil.

All poultry bones return to the stock pot after the come off of our dinner plates—yes, even after those roasted chicken drum-sticks been chewed on by the kids.  Nothing goes to waste when it comes to our valuable pastured poultry!  I add the extra chicken or duck or goose feet from our stash in the freezer to the pot on those days as well.  These were kept in the freezer since summer’s butchering days to add to winter & spring’s soups.

Enjoy!

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